‘Every Culinary Artist Must Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Restaurants.

When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest place earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.